A 7-Day TOUHOKU Adventure: Ghibli Winter Wonderland at Ginzan Onsen

As a Spirited Away fan from Shikoku Island, I am more aware of Ehime's Dogo Onsen as the inspiration for the bathhouses from the movie. Recently, though, I've learned that this small onsen town settled in the Yamagata mountains can also take you to the film.

After a long journey of conquering all 47 prefectures, I finally came to the last puzzle. It's really sweet to think how the beginning and end relate to the film. When I started solo traveling, the last place I visited before leaving was Shimjonada Station in Ehime Prefecture- also known as the fifth station. When I visited Taiwan - my first solo destination abroad- I visited Jiufen, a town inspired by the movie. And now here I am, about to be lost in another Spirited Away picture-perfect destination.

Access: How to get to Ginzan Onsen

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Getting to Ginzan Onsen from Lake Tazawa was a challenging drive. Based on our experience, I suggest not coming by car unless you are an experienced driver. Ginzan Onsen is located in the mountains of Yamagata, and the roads can be narrow and steep. Access can be even more challenging during winter due to frozen roads and snowy surroundings.

By bus (Oishida Station to Ginzan Hot Spring)

If you are planning to visit by bus, it is important to check the schedule beforehand as it does not run frequently. Additionally, due to the snow conditions in the area, you should expect some delays. However, it is recommended that you do not rely too heavily on the bus service. In the worst-case scenario, you may miss the last bus and be left without any accommodation for the night.

Time schedule (Japanese) https://www.hanagasa-bus-taisei.co.jp/base.html

Explore

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Yukemuri Restaurant Shirogane

We arrived at 1 pm, and it was snowing heavily. Crowds were gathered in every corner, and they were all distracted by the snowfall. To be honest, I was too hungry to be impressed, so the first thing we did was grab something for lunch.

Yukemuri Restaurant Shirogane is one of the comfiest places we found around the area. They serve various warm foods that are perfect for winter. Their motsu-nikomi (offal stew) is a must-try!

Shirogane Falls

Kishimojin

Ginzan Onsen Post box

Izu Kokeshi

A stroll at night

Stay: A must-stay ryokan in Ginzan Onsen

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Ginzan Onsen is also a popular destination for Japanese people as it gained popularity after being featured as a location in NHK's popular TV drama series "Oshin" in 1983. Booking a ryokan in Ginzan Onsen can be difficult, especially during winter when rooms are booked up to six months in advance.

During our trip planning back in September, we scoured every possible booking website and were lucky to find a last-minute room at Matsumoto Ryokan for our third night. The room was affordable for three people and included meals. Since our aim was to enjoy the place with fewer tourists during the nighttime, it was a win-win situation for us!

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So, is Ginzan Onsen worth visiting?

It's definitely a 'YES!' Ginzan Onsen, especially in winter, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that shouldn't be missed when traveling to Yamagata-- I recommend staying at least a night or two. And if I were to come back, I would book a night at Notoya Ryokan. If you're coming to experience the magical snowfall, you're lucky if it happens during your visit. Otherwise, another option is to consider staying an extra night to maximize your visit.

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Our upcoming trip to Zao is just around the corner! I can't wait to share all the fun winter activities you can do in Touhoku. Stay tuned for my next blog post!